In October 2025 my dad and I crossed an ocean to watch the Browns lose in London. Then we kept going — Milan, Lake Como, a thermal town outside Padua, Venice, Rome. Fourteen days in two countries. This is the record of those two weeks. It isn't a guidebook, and there is nothing in it about where to eat. It's what I noticed. A bike ride up the grade of a railway that closed in 1939, and my father standing a long time at the edge of a village cemetery he would not walk into. A man at a grand piano in a hotel lobby, an hour after my dad said out loud that he wished someone would be playing when we got back. A woman at the gate of the Roman Forum who was certain the line did not apply to her, and a guide who watched her turned away without letting herself enjoy it. A cracked phone. A church bell that still tells a whole valley what time it is. I went over carrying more than I meant to bring. My dad wasn't carrying any of it, and I don't think he ever has. Watching him for two weeks is most of what this book turned out to be about. Second edition — revised throughout, reset and redesigned, with thirty-eight photographs from the trip.
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