This journal is not a guidebook. It is one week on the upper Amazon: black water like glass, skiffs in a flooded forest, villages whose only street is a canoe, and the people who live by a river that keeps its own calendar. Robert B. Yonaitis boarded the Delfin II for a National Geographic–style run of the Marañón and Ucayali—Pacaya-Samiria, Yana Yacu, San Francisco, Atun Posa, Urarinas. What follows is the days in order: anteaters on pale limbs, a camera left in the rain that summoned every animal, pink dolphins that would not pose, a night hunt for caiman eyeshine, termites used as repellent, and a girl in a purple shirt selling a placemat for ten soles. Between the days are short notes for the reader who wants the name after the story has moved on—toadlets and botos, floating meadows that close behind you, where village money actually goes, the difference between abundance and diversity, the sky when the lamps finally go out. You do not travel to collect stamps. You travel to stand in a room you did not build. The Amazon is close on a map and far in every way that counts. A two-hour listen. A week you can carry.
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